Which Color Developer you need for your brow treatments

What is a Color Developer?

Before we dive into different types of Color Developers, let’s start with the basics: What exactly is a developer?

Supercilium Developers offer two options: a professional-grade hydrogen peroxide solution specifically formulated for eyebrow tinting and a water-based Color Developer to activate the henna. Our Color Developers seamlessly blend with our brow and lash tints to create a smooth, consistent mixture that effortlessly tints both the brow hair and lashes.

But here’s the thing - different brow treatments require different color to developer ratios to achieve the best results. That’s why we offer a selection of Color Developers tailored to specific techniques, ensuring every Brow Artist can create flawless, long-lasting results.

What does a Color Developer do?

A Color Developer plays several important roles in the tinting process:

• Activates the tint – Without a Color Developer, the color pigments won’t oxidize or deposit onto the hair properly.

• Ensures even application – A well-mixed color to developer ratio creates a smooth, creamy consistency that’s easy to apply.

• Extends color longevity – The right Color Developer helps the tint adhere better, meaning your clients get longer-lasting results!

• Enhances color intensity – Different developers can influence how deep or bold the final color appears.

How to calculate the Color Developer ratio

Getting the color to developer ratio right is key to achieving the best results in eyebrow tinting - but here’s the thing: It’s not always the same. While there are recommended ratios for different techniques, it also comes down to personal preference. You can play around with the ratios to find what works best for you and your clients, whether they prefer a soft, natural tint or a bold, defined look.

Below, we break down the correct Color Developer ratios for different products and techniques, so you can mix with confidence and create the perfect results every time!

Henna brows 

Eyebrow Tint: Brow Henna

Developer: Color Developer

Mixing Ratio: 

1. Light Henna Colors (Blonde, Light Brown, Medium Brown) → 15-20 drops of Color Developer + 1 measuring spoon of Brow Henna 

2. Dark Henna Colors (Dark Brown, Black, Auburn) → 10-15 drops of Color Developer + 1 measuring spoon of Brow Henna

Why use Color Developer instead of just water?

Henna is a powder-based formula, which means it requires proper activation to achieve a rich, long-lasting stain. While some Brow Artists use water only, using Color Developer is much better because it is specifically designed to:

• Boost pigment intensity, resulting in deeper, more defined brows.

• Ensure a smooth consistency, making application easier.

• Enhance longevity, so brows stay flawless for longer.

• Provide a calming effect, thanks to Eucalyptus, which soothes the skin.

Using Color Developer instead of normal water allows henna to bond more effectively to both the skin and hair, delivering a stronger stain that lasts longer. Don’t trust us? Enroll in our Brow Henna Mixing Course and learn everything you need!

Liquid Dye for Brows & Lashes

Eyebrow Tint: Liquid Dye with Keratin

Developer: Cream Developer

Mixing Ratio:

1. 1:1 for natural results → Equal parts Liquid Dye & Cream Developer for a soft, blended effect.

2. 2:1 for bold results → Two parts Liquid Dye & one part Cream Developer for a more intense stain.

Wondering how much color to developer to use? It depends on the desired intensity and the client’s needs. The ratio of developer to color is crucial in getting the right balance between pigment and activation.

For those dealing with stubborn or gray brow hairs, you might be asking: What is the color to developer ratio for gray hair? Generally, a 2:1 ratio (two parts dye to one part developer) works best for covering gray hairs, as it ensures full saturation and long-lasting results. Want to learn expert mixing techniques? Follow our Mixing Liquid Dye Colors Masterclass to get the best out of your Liquid Dye formulations!

Why Use Cream Developer?

Even though Liquid Dye is already liquid enough to apply smoothly on brows and lashes, it still needs to oxidize - and that can’t happen without a Color Developer! The Cream Developer activates the dye, ensuring rich, long-lasting results while keeping the texture easy to apply.

• Creates a smooth, creamy texture for even application of Liquid Dye.

• Ensures deep penetration of color into both the hair and skin.

• Provides skin-friendly application, reducing irritation risks.

• Works on both brows and lashes, making it a versatile must-have.

Airbrush Brows

Eyebrow Tint: Liquid Dye with Keratin

Developer: Airbrush Developer

Mixing Ratio: 1:1 – 1 drop of Airbrush Developer with 1 drop of Liquid Dye.

For the Airbrush technique, you need a developer that creates a liquid consistency for smooth, even spraying. Unlike creamy developers, Airbrush Developer ensures that the Liquid Dye flows effortlessly through the Airbrush Machine while delivering a flawless, skin-staining effect.

How to mix:

Add 1 drop of Airbrush Developer and 1 drop of Liquid Dye directly into the Airbrush cup. Then, mix using the backflush technique - this helps blend the formula evenly inside the airbrush system for a perfect application.

Why use Airbrush Developer?

The Airbrush technique requires a unique developer-to-color ratio to ensure the right sprayable texture that doesn’t clog in the machine. Why you’ll love the Airbrush Developer:

• Optimizes the formula for spraying, ensuring even, flawless coverage.

• Helps color adhere to both hair and skin for a defined, crispy look.

• Keeps brows hydrated, preventing dryness after treatment.

• Delivers long-lasting stain power!

Using the correct Color Developer ratio ensures that the Airbrush Dye flows smoothly, preventing clogs while still delivering a bold and defined result.

Color to Developer Ratio for Grey Hair

Grey hairs can be more resistant to color because they have a coarser texture and lack melanin, making it harder for pigment to penetrate. For the best results, use a 2:1 color to developer ratio with Liquid Dye - this means two parts dye to one part Cream Developer. This stronger mix ensures full coverage and a longer-lasting stain on stubborn gray hairs. Next, it’s advised to use a longer processing time than normal. On non-gray hairs, max 10 minutes is usually enough, but for gray hairs, we advise stretching it to 10-13 minutes. 

If you’re tinting gray brows, adding a hint of Ash Grey to the blend can help neutralize warm undertones and create a more natural-looking result.

What Color Developer for Black Hair?

For deep, intense black brows, you need a Color Developer that enhances depth without over-lightening. The best option is Supercilium’s Cream Developer paired with Black Liquid Dye in a 2:1 ratio for maximum saturation. 

FAQ

What Developer Should I Use for My Eyebrows?

The type of Color Developer you need depends on the tinting product you're using:

• For Henna Brows → Use Color Developer to enhance pigment intensity and extend longevity. 

• For Liquid Dye & Lash Dye → Use Cream Developer (3%) for a smooth, even application.

• For Airbrush Brows → Use Airbrush Developer (3%) for a liquid consistency that sprays flawlessly.

Can I put 20% Developer on My Eyebrows?

No, 20% developer (6 Vol) is too strong for eyebrow tinting. Higher-volume developers are typically used for lifting and bleaching hair, which is unnecessary for brows.

For safe and effective tinting, always stick to a 3% (10 Vol) developer like Supercilium’s Cream Developer, which is specifically formulated for brows and lashes.

What Volume Developer for Eyebrow Tint?

The ideal developer volume for eyebrow tint is 3% (10 Vol). This ensures the color develops properly without damaging the delicate brow hairs or irritating the skin.

If you're using henna, the Color Developer is a better alternative to water as it enhances the stain and improves longevity.

Wanna know more about mixing ratios with Liquid Dye? Enroll in our new Masterclass and become a pro at mixing Liquid Dye, understanding the perfect color to developer ratio, and creating custom blends for every client!